In many ways, I feel this write-up will not do Lisboa justice. This is a place that can’t be captured in words. Without even trying, Lisboa makes you stumble and fall in love. It’s like a whirlwind romance that sweeps you off your feet and takes your breath away. Lisboa has a romantic soul and fills you to the very core with a vibe unlike any other place.
As with most of our travels, words capture the essence of the place to a much lesser degree than pictures to. I’ll have you know that our travel style on this trip is very much a “winging it” approach, we pretty much decided what we were going to do every morning over breakfast. We might not have had the best deals or the best of all the experiences that Lisboa has to offer, but we had an open and flexible mindset and a sense of adventure which made everyday absolutely spectacular! We made the best decisions we had available at every juncture and oh, that was part of the thrill of living everyday as an adventure!
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If you stay in Alfama as we did, you will never be out of viewpoints like this. The best way to discover Alfama is to wander around aimlessly and allow yourself to be amazed. Our lazy strolls with the kids led us to breath-taking views and, oh wait, what is that catchy beat? A group of young adults practising capoeira? Oh that’s fun! These guys have such amazing bodies which should not come as a big surprise as capoeira truly is a full body workout. The controlled movements that needs to be executed with graceful fluidity and the ability to carry your own body weight using your hands and upper body is admirable. Capoeira is an Afro-Brazilian martial art that combines elements of dance, acrobatics, and music. Let the kids join the class from the sidelines as you take in the movements, the capoeira beats and the gorgeous views in the background. Be in the moment.
Street art is abundant all through Lisboa and Alfama is not short of it’s own. Such talent and free for all. Playgrounds – immensely popular with the kids and parents as well. It’s free and it’s a break for us to sit and chat with each other. This was an elusive playground but Eduardo from Sandeman Tours was a real gem with tips! Often the playground time comes hand in hand with café com leite for the lady and a cerveja for the man. This was for a princely sum of €2.10 Belém Tower – a 15th century fortress and ceremonial gateway to Lisbon, it remains one of the most emblematic monuments of Lisboa. The architecture is an interesting mix of the Manueline style but also with Moorish influences as well as some masonry motifs. As we arrived, there was a sound check taking place for a rock concert that night so it was a peculiar but very cool vibe to arrive at a historic monument with rock music playing. Immediately, we made plans to attend the concert. That….is….how we roll!
The kids attending their first concert – #RockinRio2019 was absolutely fabulous. The kids loved it and did not want to leave. We had some lucky stars shining down on us as Rock in Rio typically only happens on even numbered years. This year was an exception given it’s the 15th anniversary of Rock in Rio. Free entry even! Totally #winning. Our Insta has more on this, check it out here.We did both the Mercado da Ribeira and Mercado Time Out. If we were not so busy exploring Lisboa, we would have bought some fresh fish and made a delicious meal. We met 2 couples travelling together and one of them used to be a chef at the Hyatt. He loves to cook and he showed us pictures of what he had cooked the night before, all from produce from the Mercardo. It was lush! Wish we met them earlier and charmed our ways to an invite!We decided to do the Sandeman Free Walking Tour (paid tips instead of a fixed price) as we certainly enjoy the cultural appreciation of a place rather than walking around aimlessly and having so much information lost on you. This clock is a great example. Walking about, this would have been just another clock. With Eduardo, we know that this was a genius creation in it’s time and the creator left no notes on it. On his death, that knowledge died with him. So when the clock stopped working, no one knew how to fix it. Years and years of trying to reverse engineer it, it is so complex that up to this day, it remains unfixed and shows the wrong time. The streets of Lisboa truly has quite a charm to it. Alfama has our hearts, but even the town has the same charm. Interestingly, only Alfama remains in it’s original form therefore also called the Old Town. The rest of Lisboa was largely destroyed and reconstructed after the devastation of the earthquake and tsunamis in 1755.
The events of 1755 have shaped Lisboa to what it is today, obviously the reconstruction so what meets the eye but less obvious is the mindset of the people post the devastation. See, the day the earthquake took place happened to be one of the holiest days for those of the Christian faith. It was All Saints Day. The people started questioning why would God do this on such a day? Of course, reasons (both religious and non-religious) are aplenty. These things happen though and you must take whichever interpretation that helps you and puts you in a stronger place.There was this one day that we decided to take the Cacilhas ferry that I read on the Frommers guidebook in our AirBnB. Euro1.50 one way per adult to go across the river? Sounds fabulous! Kids ride for free? Even better! Turns out this wonderful ferry stops at 2 destinations (told you, we weren’t fully prepared) which is from Belem to Porto Brandão and Trafaria. We decide to stay on the ferry for the ride! As we approached Trafaria, it looked like a cute little fishing town with small colourful fishing boats bobbing on the sparkly blue waters. Shall we hop off? Why not! We decided to have lunch there at what looked like a promising establishment with wooden chairs and tables and seafarers decorations throughout the restaurant. It was absolutely delicious! Right across the establishment was a barber so Mr.C got his stylish do all done up, the Portuguese way!Some lounging around the beach and watching a man gather clams turned into a perfect educational moment for the kids. #notallclassroomshavewallsWe decided on a day trip to Sintra on the recommendation of just about everyone we spoke to! It was a 45 min train ride away and a lot of uphill walking. Sintra is made to look like a medieval town but much of it was only in the last 200 years. There was only two original structures from the 14th century, and that is the Palacio Nacional and the Moorish Castle. Much of what Sintra is now is the influence of the Romantic Period from the Germans. There’s two pastries that are well known and only found in Sintra, check them out at the Lisboa Food Funland post (coming soon!). Left to Right: Ginjinha – a local cherry liquor; Cathedral at Quinta da Regaleira; the very sad story of Luis de Camoes (I will have to save this story for another post!); some towers as part of the Qunita da Regaleira; symbolism of the Knights Templar; a doorknob that could kill, the Initiation Well (refer to our Insta for the story) and yet another fanciful tower at the gardens at Quinta da Regaleira.On the last full day we had at Lisboa, we head out to Cascais for a day at the beach. As you might as expected, the water was icy cold. It was such a gorgeous beach though, sparkly blue waters and soft sand. The kids had so much of fun running around, building sandcastles and plain being kids.
On the way to the beach, we bought these luscious figs from a fruit peddler. He said it’s from his garden or farm and all natural. I take that to mean organic. I can’t say I completely understand or trust but it what was undeniable was the facts: 1kg for €3 and the best damn figs ever. Succulent and sweet, each and every one of them.I can’t end this post without yet another shot from Alfama. This was taken from my morning jog, often coinciding with the sunrise. Mr.C and I take turns to do the jog as it gives us so much than just our exercise, it also gives us our me-time and such gratifying views.
Author: Ms.K
Ms.K is everything that Mr.C is, without the natural interest in investing and company financials! The activity planner for the family, the driver of random ideas and soon to be ‘retiring’ in to full time motherhood – Ms.K has no idea what she’s in for but remains super excited!
One Reply to “Luscious Lisboa..Be Warned, You’ll Lose Your Heart”
Muahhhhh!!! OMG!!! loving this Ms. K 😍!!! Looking forward to hearing more of your travels!! Very informational and the snapshots are gorgeous!!! love the spontaneous little adventures, spur of the moment lessons for the toddlers (the world is their playground 👌) and also how the both of you are managing to get your ‘me’ times!!! Good going!!! Beeeg hugs from all of us here!!
Muahhhhh!!! OMG!!! loving this Ms. K 😍!!! Looking forward to hearing more of your travels!! Very informational and the snapshots are gorgeous!!! love the spontaneous little adventures, spur of the moment lessons for the toddlers (the world is their playground 👌) and also how the both of you are managing to get your ‘me’ times!!! Good going!!! Beeeg hugs from all of us here!!